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Extraction of eco-friendly natural dyes from mango leaves and their application on silk fabric

Textiles and Article of clothing Sustainability volume i, Commodity number:seven (2015) Cite this article

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Abstract

The aim of the study was to evaluate the performance of dyes extracted from mango leaves in silk dyeing. Extraction medium was optimized by extracting dyes from fixed quantity of crushed leaves under pH values from 3 to 12. The maximum relative color strength of the extracted dye liquor was plant to be at pH 10. The optimum dye extraction weather condition i.due east., the temperature, time, and material-to-liquor ratio were found to be 98 °C, threescore min, and 1:10, respectively. Dyeing was carried out with the optimized dye extract on mordanted and unmordanted silk fabrics. The dyed materials were evaluated by measuring the color yield and fastness properties. It was ended that the color values were found to be influenced by the addition of mordants, consequently different fashion hues were obtained from the same dye excerpt using unlike mordants. It can also be said that mango leaves have skilful potentiality for dyeing of silk fabric.

Background

Textile dyeing manufacture at present uses excessive amount of synthetic dyes to meet the required coloration of global consumption of textiles due to cheaper prices, wider ranges of bright shades, and considerably improved fastness properties in comparison to natural dyes (El-Nagar et al. 2005; Iqbal et al. 2008). Merely the production of synthetic dyes is dependent on petrochemical source, and some of these dyes incorporate carcinogenic amines (Hunger 2003). The application of such dyes causes serious health hazards and influences negatively the eco-residual of nature (Bruna and Maria 2013; Goodarzian and Ekrami 2010; Jothi 2008). Moreover, many countries already imposed stringent environment standards over these dyes. For instance, Federal republic of germany has banned the azo dyes (Almahy et al. 2013). In this situation, a college demand is put towards the greener alternatives or agricultural residues (Ammayappan et al. 2014). As a result, natural dyes are among the promising options for developing a greener textile dyeing process and such interest is reflected to the increased number of recent publications. Plant leaves are potential sources of natural dyes because of their like shooting fish in a barrel availability and abundant nature.

Silk has been known as the "queen of fibers" since its discovery. Clothes made from silk are luxurious and have many excellent qualities including the material's luster, lite weight, superior mechanical performance, fine and smooth texture, fantabulous moisture transportation, and excellent draping quality (Cai et al. 2001). Mango bawl has been reported to be used on silk and cotton wool materials as a source of natural dyes, and a broad range of colors accept been produced using different mordants (Bains et al. 2003; Win and Swe 2008). On the other hand, the use of acrid activated mango leaf pulverisation (MLP) has been reported in some other report for the removal of the Rhodamine B (RB) dye from aqueous solution (Khan et al. 2011). Notwithstanding, apart from this application of mango leaves, unlike leaves such equally peach, poinsettia, acalypha, and parthenium leaves have likewise been reported to extract colors which were used in dyeing of silk materials (Mahajan et al. 2005; Rawat et al. 2006; Saravanan et al. 2013; Suneeta and Mahale 2002) while mango leaves have been reported to exist used in batik painting technique on silk fabric in comparison with other iv natural dyes (Klaichoi and Padungtos 2010). There is scope to extract color from mango leaves for the apply in dyeing of silk fabric in order to become different fashion hues. The aim of the research was to evaluate the performance of dyes extracted from mango leaves in silk dyeing. The specific objectives were to analyze the aqueous extraction process of the dyes, to explore the possibilities of producing fashionable hues from the dyes using unlike mordants, to compare between unmordanted and mordanted dyed fabrics, to analyze the color values, and to assess the color fastness properties of dyed textile.

Methods

Materials

Mango leaves used for the extraction purpose was collected from Roads & Highways Department, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Mangiferin as shown in Fig. i (1,3,6,seven-tetrahydroxyxanthone-C-two-β-D-glucoside) was the chemical responsible (Luo et al. 2012) for providing color from mango leaves.

Fig. i

Chemical construction of mangiferin

Full size paradigm

Plain weave (one/one) raw silk cloth (22 g/chiliad² cloth) purchased from Sopura Silk Limited, Dhaka, was used for this study.

Extraction

The leaves were washed thoroughly with h2o to remove dirt. They were stale under direct sunlight and grinded into very minor units with the assistance of a grinding motorcar. The wastages are removed using a fine strainer, and finally, weight was taken. After drying, crushing, and removing wastages, the weight of 1 kilogram leaves was found to be 318 gram. Raw, dried, and crushed leaves are shown in Fig. two.

Fig. 2

(a) Raw, (b) dried, and (c) crushed mango leaves

Full size prototype

The color component was extracted from the leaves in aqueous extraction process. Extraction was carried out with stock-still quantity of crushed leaves (10 gram) under x dissimilar pH values from pH 3 to 12 with a liquor ratio of 1:10 (Weight of crushed leaves in gram; amount of water in milliliter) at 98 °C for 60 min to optimize extraction medium. In each procedure of extraction, the mixture was cooled down and finally the dye extracts were filtered with fine filter paper three times to ensure articulate dye solution.

The dye extracts obtained at different pH values were used for obtaining standard calibration curves through their absorbance values establish using a dual beam reflectance spectrophotometer. The dilution of the extracts was carried out for the linear dependence on the concentration-absorbance relation at an absorbance height (λ _max). The absorbance values of extracted dye liquors under alkaline (pH 8–12) and acidic (pH three–6) atmospheric condition were considered every bit batches, and relative color forcefulness values of these batch solutions were measured from the spectrophotometer by comparing with the absorbance value of extracted dye liquor under neutral condition (pH 7) which was considered as standard.

Over again, the dye extract which gave the maximum colour strength was utilized to optimize the extraction levels of temperature, time, and fabric-to-liquor ratio. An orthogonal design of experiments was undertaken for this purpose.

Degumming

Raw silk cloth was degummed in an aqueous solution containing soap (xv thou/L), sequestering agent (1 chiliad/L), and wetting agent (ane yard/Fifty) maintaining the bath at pH nine. The material-to-liquor ratio during the handling was maintained at i:50. The temperature was gradually raised to 80 °C and run for sixty min. The degummed material was washed with 2 one thousand/L detergent at 65 °C for x min.

Bleaching

The degummed fabric was bleached past treating with 35 % hydrogen peroxide (three mL/L), sequestering agent (1 g/Fifty), wetting agent (i grand/L), and trisodium phosphate (2 g/L), maintaining a material-to-liquor ratio of i:l at pH 9 and temperature 60 °C for sixty min followed by washing with 2 k/50 detergent at 65 °C for ten min. CIE whiteness index of the bleached fabric was found to exist 63.26.

Mordanting

Pre-mordanting was carried out on silk fabric using five % (on fabric weight) of ferrous sulfate, alum (potassium aluminum sulfate), and can (stannous chloride) mordants individually and using four different combinations of mordants such as ferrous sulfate-alum (2.five + 2.5 %), ferrous sulfate-alum-tin (2 + 2 + 1 %), alum-can (2.five + 2.5 %), and alum-tin-tannic acid (2 + 2 + 1 %) at sixty °C for threescore min keeping a material-to-liquor ratio of one:thirty. Once more, cream of tartar (CT) was used as a mordant banana (Mortazavi et al. 2012) with stannous chloride, written as tin-CT.

Dyeing

Dyeing was carried out IR sample dyeing machine with the optimized dye excerpt every bit per standard parameters recommended for silk fabric, reported in Clariant manual, i.e., at lxxx °C for sixty min under pH 5, keeping a cloth-to-liquor ratio of 1:50. Opticid PSD (i.5 g/L) was used as a buffering agent in the extracted dye liquor.

Color yield of dyed fabrics

Dyed samples were analyzed by measuring the reflectance curve betwixt 350 and 750 nm with the spectrophotometer with illuminant D₆₅ at 10⁰ observer. The minimum of the bend (R _min) was used to make up one's mind the ratio of lite assimilation (1000) and scatter (S) via the Kubelka-Munk function (Mcdonald 1997).

$$ {\left(\frac{K}{Southward}\right)}_{\mathrm{Dyed}}=\frac{{\left(1-{R}_{\min}\correct)}^ii}{2{R}_{\min }}. $$

(1)

Color coordinates of dyed fabrics

The color coordinates of the dyed samples were determined based on the CIELab system via the spectrophotometer. In improver, ∆East_CMC value was determined to show the colour difference betwixt mordanted and unmordanted samples.

Color fastness

Washing and light fastness tests were carried out in ISO 105 C02 and ISO 105 B02 method, respectively.

Results and discussion

Color strength of extracted dye liquors

Optimum pH was selected based on the relative color strength value of the extracted dye liquor at which maximum color was extracted. Changes in color strength were found due to changes in pH as shown in Table 1.

Table 1 Relative color force of extracted dye liquors at pH iii to12

Full size tabular array

It can exist seen from the extraction results that the extracted solution showed maximum colour strength at pH 10 which was 108.v. It was also found that from the neutral status (pH vii), relative color forcefulness values gradually decreased up to pH four and so increased at pH 3. The reason of extracting more coloring component in alkaline medium was due to the presence of acidic phenolic groups in mangiferin which reacted with alkali and formed more soluble salts in water as shown in Fig. 3. The solubility of the coloring component was increased due to the increased ionization of hydroxyl (phenoxide) groups in alkaline metal medium (Ali 2007).

Fig. 3

Reaction of mangiferin with caustic soda

Total size image

Again, increasing the pH from neutral status improved the colour strength of the extracted dye liquors up to a sure point. A further increment in alkaline pH resulted in decrease in the colour strength of the excerpt. This reject in color strength was due to the high reactivity of mangiferin in full-bodied element of group i medium (Spyroudis 2000).

Furthermore, the prison cell wall of leaves is equanimous of cellulosic material which gains anionic accuse under alkali metal medium. Because of these anionic repulsive forces among the cell walls, they lose their strength and ruptured easily (Ali 2007). In addition, equally the observed leaf dyes accept polyphenolic chromophoric structure, hence meliorate extractions were observed using aqueous method (Sivakumar et al. 2009a, b).

Study of pH stability of dye extracts

It was noticeable during extraction that pH of the extraction bath changed gradually with fourth dimension. Table 2 shows the pH variation after filtration and with time elapsed.

Table ii Changes in pH at the extraction procedure

Full size table

pH was plant to exist decreased in all the extraction baths from pH 3 to 12. This was due to the release of acidic color components from the leaves during extraction. From the neutral pH bath where the pH was set up 7, the higher the alkalinity of the extraction bath, the greater was the pH drop rate. The drop rate became gradually slower while gradually approaching to more than acidic bath from neutral bath. The pH was also measured after 24 h of the filtration process to notice the stability of the extracted bath at acidic pH, and no major noticeable alter was reported.

Again, the dyes tin show resonating grade and give different tones with the modify in pH because for natural dyes, pH changes very often. Furthermore, silk dyeing is recommended to be carried out in acidic medium as silk is sensitive to alkaline medium of dyeing, but extraction of the mangiferin dyes was optimized at alkaline pH. Therefore, the stability of the dyes after extraction is of importance.

Optimization of aqueous extraction conditions

The levels for each of the three factors in the orthogonal pattern of experiments are shown in Tabular array 3. The extraction experiments were performed nether optimum pH condition (pH = 10). The results of the orthogonal blueprint of experiments are shown in Table 4.

Table 3 Factors and levels in orthogonal blueprint of experiment for aqueous extraction

Full size table

Table 4 The absorbance values and range analysis from orthogonal experiment

Total size table

Optimum factors: A_threeB_twoC_ane,

Absorbance = 1.041.

The optimum extraction weather were 98 °C for temperature factor, 60 min for time factor, and 1:ten for fabric-to-liquor ratio. It has been plant that dye liquor extracted under optimum conditions had the maximum absorbance value, which was i.041. From the range analysis of the boilerplate absorbance results equally shown in Tabular array 4, the most influential factor of extraction was cloth-to-liquor ratio, while extraction time gene was the to the lowest degree influential.

Dyed samples

The use of mordants and their combinations produced dissimilar shades on silk material which are shown in Table 5.

Table 5 Shades of dyed silk

Full size table

Colour measurements of dyed fabrics

The results of color measurements of the dyed silks are shown in Table half-dozen.

Table 6 Colour yield, color coordinates, and color divergence of dyed fabrics

Full size table

K/S value of the unmordanted dyed sample was found to exist 11.85. This dye uptake on the silk fiber is attributed to the structural features of the cobweb. However, in the mordanting method, mordant resulted in improved color yield of the dyed fabrics, except can. Ferrous sulfate as a mordant significantly increased the color yield of silk. The Thou/Southward value was institute to be 17.46 using ferrous sulfate which showed the maximum relative surface color strength value of 147.four % considering the unmordanted dyed sample equally reference. Also, using alum with ferrous sulfate, and tin and alum with ferrous sulfate as a combination, colour strengths were found to be 140.three % (K/Southward = sixteen.62) and 121.7 % (Yard/S = 14.42), respectively.

In single mordanting process of silk, the order of color yield was found to be ferrous sulfate > alum > tin. It was obvious that color yield gradually decreased when approached from ferrous sulfate to can. Again, amongst the 4 different combinations of mordants, the gild was found to be ferrous sulfate-alum > alum-tin-tannic acid > ferrous sulfate-alum-tin > alum-tin.

The addition of ferrous sulfate mordant increased the greenness quality 21.58 % when compared with the reference dyed sample. Tin reduced 22.23 % redness while tin-CT increased 34.05 % redness of the reference dyed sample. Once more, from b* values, information technology was noticed that all the ferrous sulfate mordanted samples were bluer than the reference samples while tin-CT and alum-tin-TA mordanted samples increased yellowness of dyed cloth. The color saturation value (C*) were found to exist least in ferrous sulfate mordanted sample (8.7) whereas the values were plant to be maximum in the instance of alum (32.3) and tin-CT (32.half-dozen) mordanted samples. Moreover, the hue angles lie within 67.8° to 83.7°, and so all of the dyed samples were closer to yellowish shade than the cerise. College colour difference (∆E _CMC) was noticeable betwixt reference and ferrous sulfate mordanted samples, and the departure reduced from ferrous sulfate to alum and then alum to tin can as shown in Table 6.

The presence of hydroxyl or carbonyl groups in dye structure is capable to course metal complex with the positively charged metals. Dye anions and metal cations have strong allure towards positively charged amino and negatively charged carboxyl groups of silk, respectively. Hence, they form ionic bonding between dye and fiber, metal and fiber, and finally dye and metal ions. The dye-metal complex also forms coordinate bonds with the uncharged amine (−NH₂) groups of silk every bit shown in Fig. 4. In addition, one molecule of dye tin can form a bond with i site of fiber molecule while i molecule of mordant tin grade bonds with ii or more molecules of dyes. Therefore, these are some of the different features indicating awarding of mordants increased the color yield (Bhattacharya and Shah 2000; Temani et al. 2011; Uddin 2014).

Fig. four

Structure of mangiferin with ferrous sulfate on silk

Full size image

Again, ferrous sulfate as a transition metallic having coordination number 6 forms a large number of complexes with the dye molecules (Mongkholrattanasit and Punrattanasin 2012). As a result, when they interact with the silk fiber, some coordination sites remain free, and at that time, amino and carboxylic groups on the fiber tin occupy these costless sites. Thus, ferrous sulfate can form a ternary circuitous on one site with the fiber and in another site with the dye (Fig. 4). This strong coordination tendency can heighten interaction between the fiber and the dye (Bhattacharya and Shah 2000). This resulted in higher dye uptake equally well as shade change due to mordanting with ferrous sulfate (Uddin 2014).

In contrast, aluminum and tin salts formed weak coordination complexes with the dyes. This tends to course quite strong bonds with the dye molecule just not with the fiber (Cotton and Wilkinson 1972). Thus, they block the dye and reduce its interaction with the cobweb. This is the reason behind the lower M/South values in the example of aluminum and tin salts than those obtained from ferrous sulfate. Moreover, CT as an assistant increased the color yield from 11.16 to 13.19 when used with tin. CT is chemically potassium hydrogen tartrate which can exist used in addition to dyes and mordants to change the pH in society to change colors and to help the absorption of the mordant metal (Mortazavi et al. 2012).

Fastness results

Washing fastness

The results of washing and light fastness of the dyed fabrics are shown in Table vii.

Table seven Washing and lite fastness of dyed fabrics

Full size table

The unmordated dyed silk showed color change rating of four. This can exist explained that the good fastness to washing for the sample dyed without mordant was due to the affinity of coloring component through H-bonding and van der Waals forces. Using mordants, the color change ratings were constitute to be within iii/4 to 5, where a rating of five (excellent) was found using tin can-CT mordant. The ratings were constitute to exist iv/5 in the example of using alum and alum-tin. So it can be said that the overall ratings of color change were good. Every bit wash fastness is influenced past the rate of diffusion of dye molecules and country of dyes inside the fiber, dyes has a tendency to aggregate inside the fiber. Thus, their molecular size is increased resulting in good wash fastness. In add-on, in the case of mordanted samples, complexing with mordant too has the effect of insolubilizing the dye, making information technology color fast.

On the other hand, the color staining ratings were constitute to be from 4/5 to five for all the dyed fabrics, except when ferrous sulfate and its combinations were used every bit mordant. At that place were very slight staining observed on to the adjacent wool cobweb of the multifiber fabric in the case of ferrous sulfate and its combination samples where the ratings were 4 and almost no staining on the other fibers of the multifiber material.

Lite fastness

Light fastness every bit shown in Table seven was found to exist better, and among those, the everyman ratings attained were 5 in the case of tin and alum-tin combination while the unmordanted dyed fabric showed a rating of 6.

In the case of metallic mordants, ferrous sulfate mordanted samples dyed with the mango leaf extracts showed excellent light fastness. This happened due to the formation of a complex with transition metal which protected the chromophore from photolytic degradation. The photons sorbed past the chromophoric group dissipated their energy by resonating within the 6-member band thus formed and, hence, protecting the dyes. Thus, ferrous sulfate can bind with more dye molecules than alum or tin. During exposure to light, the fabrics mordanted with ferrous sulfate, alum, or tin can may take the same number of dye molecules destroyed. Merely as the fabrics mordanted with ferrous sulfate had deeper shades due to bonding with more than number of dye molecules, it seemed to fade less compared to the fabric mordanted with alum or tin can.

Conclusions

This written report was planned in search of greener alternative to satisfy the consumers' growing demand of eco-friendly products, and progress has been made with this study in the use of mango leaves extracts. The maximum relative color force of the extracted dye liquor was found to be at pH 10. But the extracted dye liquors accept shown skillful pH stability in acidic conditions. It was shown that unlike way hues were obtained on silk cloth from the aforementioned dye extract using mordants and their combinations. Again, color yields were found to be influenced by the add-on of mordants. In single mordanting, the society of color yield was ferrous sulfate > alum > can. In combined mordanting, the order was ferrous sulfate-alum > alum-tin can-tannic acid > ferrous sulfate-alum-can > alum-can. Other color values were also found to exist influenced due to mordanting. Washing and light fastness properties were constitute to be from good to excellent in virtually of the cases. Thus, on the basis of the results, it tin can be said that mango leaves have good telescopic for application on silk fabrics.

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1. Section of Textile Engineering science, Kinesthesia of Engineering, Ahsanullah University of Science and Applied science, Dhaka, 1208, Bangladesh

   Mohammad Gias Uddin

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Correspondence to Mohammad Gias Uddin.

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The author declares that he has no competing interest.

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Uddin, Thou.G. Extraction of eco-friendly natural dyes from mango leaves and their application on silk fabric. Text Cloth Sustain i, 7 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40689-015-0007-9

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• Received: 06 Apr 2015

• Accepted: 02 June 2015

• Published: fourteen July 2015

• DOI : https://doi.org/x.1186/s40689-015-0007-9

Keywords

• Ferrous Sulfate
• Silk Cobweb
• Silk Fabric
• Mangiferin
• Lite Fastness

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